Amazing Morocco: Hospitality unsurpassed in land of contrasts

Posted 1 day ago

The bad news? I'm a 40-year-old woman from Winnipeg who has just landed in a Muslim country only to learn the airline has lost my luggage. All of my luggage.

The good news? The Muslim country I've landed in is Morocco, a land of contrasts where mothers clothed in traditional jellabas - a full-length, body- covering garment - shop side-by-side with their teenage daughters dressed not much differently from my own.

My worries about being able to find something to wear proved just as unfounded as were my preconceptions of what it would be like travelling as a woman through a Muslim country.

The people were welcoming and the hospitality unequalled in this nation that seems to forever jostle between competing influences.

The modernity of the nation's many five-star hotels slams up against a land where history is measured in thousand-year blocks. The nation's predominantly Muslim population lives side-by-side with its smaller Christian and Jewish populations. European influences from Spain - just across the Strait of Gibraltar - nicely weave with African roots.

Oh, and then there's the visually jolting contrast of a goat grazing by the side of a highway - in a tree. The goat, that is. But more on that later.

Some contrasts are expected, others not.

The facade of our 21-room hotel, the Sultanta, located in the centre of Marrakesh's medina (the oldest parts of the city, encircled by walls), was plain. But once inside, we were surrounded by an opulent display of carved plaster and cedar, and intricate mosaics.

All exteriors in Morocco, it turns out, are plain, hiding the wealth within to give no indication to previous generations of invaders what they may contain.

Shopping at the souks (street markets) within the medina walls brought a different experience. At times sellers can be aggressive when trying to entice you into the store. Bargaining being the only way in the souks, take care where you enter, as it can be considered an opening you might not want to follow up on.

Bargaining is a form of entertainment, rooted in the past when there were no outside diversions other than the customers who happened upon your shop. A relationship is expected to develop, and though at times it may seem an arduous process - and at times a losing proposition - it can also result in smug satisfaction when a hard-fought deal results in a hug and kisses at the end of the negotiations.

And then there are those goats. Just outside Essaouira is a forest of trees from which argan nuts are collected to make the traditional Berber oil, used commonly here for salad dressings. Legend has it the best way to harvest the nuts is to have goats collect them - from up high in the trees.

It sounded too weird to be true, until our car rounded a bend and, sure enough, there were three goats in a tree by the roadside. The van was brought to a quick halt and we rushed to take pictures - until another vehicle stopped. The herdsmen, who had been requesting dinars, at this point violently yanked the goats out of the tree and took off through the meadow.

So was it all just a photo op, orchestrated to separate tourists from their dinars? I'm still not sure. Quite a sight, though.

By the roadside are several collectives owned, operated and staffed by Berber women, who are willing to explain the labour-intensive processes involved in making argan oil. They'll sell you a bottle of culinary grade oil - delicious on salads or mopped up with a chunk of fresh bread - or you can pick up cosmetics made from the leftover paste once the oil is extracted.

Essaouira itself has a welcoming, laid-back surfing vibe shared by beach towns the world over. A picturesque harbour is packed with fishing boats, white buildings are trimmed in a bright blue, the refreshing salt air blows in off the ocean and there are camels lounging on the sand waiting to take tourists for a ride.

In Rabat, the current capital of the Kingdom of Morocco, lies the final resting place of Morocco's beloved King Mohammed V, who successfully negotiated independence from France in 1956 (and grandfather to the current King Mohammed VI).

Inside the mausoleum, one's world shrinks to the sound of a single, haunting voice of a lone man reciting prayers from the Qur'an, rising from below to echo through the chamber.

And then there's Fes, where the past and present live side-by-side, with sweet-faced donkeys patiently waiting alongside cars packed into parking lots. Donkeys are used to transport goods inside the oldest parts of the medinas where alleyways are too narrow for vehicles.

Fes's winding alleyways lead to some of the best places in Morocco to watch artisans such as woodworkers, weavers, metalworkers, bakers and tailors in their own shops. The pottery quarter, now located outside the medina, is also well worth a visit to gain a greater appreciation of mosaics.

Every twist and turn in any souk brings a different aromatic experience, from the sweet scent of fresh ground spices to the reek of fish being sold in nearby carts. But never is the smell more overwhelming than when nearing Fes's tannery section.

It's worth getting past the stench (sprigs of mint are helpfully handed out) to take a fascinating step back in time to watch animal skins being tanned. The leather, manipulated by men with their feet in large outdoor pots, goes through several washes, including quick lime, pigeon droppings, turmeric and natural dyes.

Meknes, 60 kilometres west of Fes, was the 17th-century headquarters of the Sultan Moulay Ismail, who united the country for the first time in five centuries. Contrasting with the 40-kilometre-long wall built as part of a defensive fortress are the 25 beautiful gates for which the city is known.

Inside the walls, Ismail made provisions to be able to withstand a long siege - including the Royal Granaries, an amazing engineering feat with a water reservoir below, which helps stabilize the temperature, meaning grain can be stored for decades.

24 May 2008


Long before the King of Morocco ratified the Vision 2010 national development plan to help diversify the economy and bring foreign investment, Morocco was a popular destination for international film producers. Films such as Ridley Scott’s ‘Gladiator’ and ‘The Kingdom of Heaven’ have recently been shot there and Morocco’s now so famous as a film set that it has a series of internationally acclaimed film festivals annually such as the Mediterranean Short Film Festival in Tangier and the Trans-Sahara Film Festival in Zagora, which both take place in June.

Naturally, now that the King of Morocco’s ambitious plans for economic diversification are coming to fruition as laid out and detailed in Vision 2010, the film industry is one to benefit even more from the new policies and legislation that have brought about greater business transparency in a successful bid to attract significant and sustainable levels of foreign direct investment.

One of the latest productions to benefit was the BBC’s ‘The Passion.’ Speaking in an interview with The Sun specifically about the filming experience, actor James Nesbitt who played Pontius Pilate remarked that: “from the bustle of Marrakech’s colourful souks to the vast beauty of the Atlas Mountains, it is surprisingly different from anywhere in Europe” – despite being only a short three hour hop away from the UK!

And the film industry is certainly not the only one to benefit from Vision 2010 and the strong economic emergence of Morocco; forming strategically central roles in the national development plan are the tourism and real estate industries which is why Morocco has suddenly become such a popular place for property investment.

According to Steve Worboys, MD of Experience International: “developments such as Apple Gardens in Marrakech, which comprises of 51 high quality villas within a boutique-style development are being snatched up by investors well aware that demand will potentially push up values in the city where there have been predictions of 15% annual capital growth, but that as Vision 2010 comes to completion, Morocco will likely be internationally recognised as a superb place to live, work, invest and do business.”

For others, the appeal of Morocco is not just about its economic strength and fantastic investment landscape – it’s more about the beauty of the nation, the fabulous weather, the history, the magical cities and the people. This is why Morocco is such a popular choice with film producers, holiday-makers and now second home buyers alike. Proving popular with the latter group are resort style developments such as Mediterranea Saïdia with its golf clubs, private beach, diving and sailing centre and myriad of five star facilities, and Playa Vista where apartments are guaranteed an ocean view forever because of their breathtaking sea front setting.

For more information, visit experience-international.com.

Magharebia
Published on Magharebia‎ (http://www.magharebia.com) ‎

Female rappers win Morocco's first national hip-hop competition

07/05/2008

Ten hip-hop and breakdance groups from across Morocco competed at the Ouf du Bled music festival Saturday in Casablanca. Female rappers Flow Tigresses and breakdance troupe Anti Boys Crew won the final vote.

By Imane Belhaj for Magharebia in Casablanca – 07/05/08

[oufdubled.com] The "Ouf du Bled" music festival, Morocco's first-ever national hip-hop music and breakdance competition, wrapped up on Saturday (May 3rd) in Casablanca.

The recent "Ouf du Bled" music festival in Casablanca was more than a great showcase of Moroccan hip-hop and rap talent; it was also the first-ever national hip-hop music and breakdance competition. After winning regional contests, ten groups from across the country performed for fans at Cinéma Rialto on Saturday (May 3rd). The audience voted to push female rappers Flow Tigresses and breakdance troupe Anti Boys Crew straight to victory.

Organisers were pleased with the large turnout. Najlaa Naoumi of the contest's judging panel said the national festival attracted nearly 1,000 spectators when about 600 were expected.

The festival was a golden opportunity for talented bands to go up on stage and perform before the Casablanca public, Naoumi said, not to mention offering new talent a chance to meet established bands such as Casa Crew, Fez Clan City and Casa Urban Show.

Event organisers Centaure Agency and "L'boulevard des jeunes musiciens" saw the growing appeal of hip-hop culture to young people and became convinced that the festival would be a success, she explained. In the future, she said, the festival will be the voice of youth through which "they can express whatever goes on in their minds".

Thirty years after the appearance of Nass El Ghiwane, the Moroccan music scene is witnessing a revolution. Young people think hip-hop is about ideas and aspirations as much as it is about art. Most rap and hip-hop artists assert that their message condemns violence and calls for peace, optimism, love of life and the bold expression of youth issues.

One sign that hip-hop could indeed be the musical expression of the future is that male and female artists can compete with each other and be evaluated as equals. The Ouf du Bled competition winner, Flow Tigresses, is made up of four young women between 17 and 20 years of age. Spectator Nadia Safi, who said she is "a passionate fan of rap", voted for Hind, Sofia, Faten and Wahiba because "they could one day represent feminine rap".

Concert headliners Casa Crew, Fez Clan City and Casa Urban Show performed their best-known works and encouraged novices to keep pursuing their goals.

"It is not a question of winning, though we surely wish to. This is more about participating," said Muhamed, whose group Flow Man competed at the festival. "We managed to establish contacts with a number of interested people and organisers of such events. We will definitely have another opportunity to show our talents, which is a great motive to put more effort into this," he told Magharebia.

The festival also included a breakdance competition. Groups showed distinguished talents through complicated moves that dazzled the audience.

"They are true athletes and artists, because their dance moves are really difficult," said 12-year-old Nabil. "What is even more amazing is that they have outdone the original creators of breakdance."

Competitors at Ouf du Bled went through early rounds in their hometowns and provinces across Morocco. The contest field was ultimately narrowed to 6 rap and hip-hop bands and 4 breakdance troupes for the Casablanca event.

Magharebia
Published on Magharebia‎ (http://www.magharebia.com) ‎

Moroccan desert music festival highlights African cultural traditions

15/05/2008

The latest Desert Music Festival in Morocco celebrated the Sahraoui landscape and inter-cultural dialogue.

By Hassan Benmehdi for Magharebia in Casablanca – 15/05/08

[Hassan Benmehdi] The fifth annual Desert Music Festival held May 9-11th in Errachidia gathered international performers, including Angolan ballet troupe Kilandukilu, which combines tradition and modernity.

The fifth annual Desert Music Festival held May 9-11th in the Errachidia region of south-eastern Morocco attracted an international audience and notable performers. Organisers say the annual event works to preserve authentic values, showcase and safeguard African cultural heritage and highlight the magnificent scenery of the Moroccan desert.

"[The festival] brings together tradition and modernity and promotes the tourist potential" of the Sahara, said organising committee member Hassan Bahtati, adding that his year’s desert concert series "drew a sizeable audience from Morocco, Africa, Europe". After five years’ experience, he said, the festival of desert music is beginning to take on an international dimension.

Performers included well-known Moroccan and foreign artists such as Jolf Art (Senegal), Arion (Greece) and others from Algeria, Sudan, Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Chile and Mali.

At the festival’s opening celebrations, the great Chilean guitarist Marcelo de la Puebla said, "It’s an honour for me to take part in a festival which preaches peace and dialogue between cultures."

A good-natured spirit prevailed during the three days of performances. The young audience who turned out in great numbers to attend the various concerts appreciated the quality of the artists and musicians.

"Festivals such as this enable us to be entertained and promote our cultural and artistic heritage to peoples from all around the world," said Lahcen, a young man in his twenties who had come from Arfoud to attend the festival.

His friend Abdellah remarked that young people suffering from unemployment and isolation in the region were excited about the event because it gave them work opportunities, "even if only for a few days".

The festival came at just the right time and provided a welcome respite, agreed Mohamed, a family man from Rissani.

"This is an opportunity for families from the region, who have nowhere else to take their children for a good time, to have a break from their routine," he told Magharebia.

In previous years, the shows were staged as open-air spectacles on the oases of Merzouga, Ksar El Fida, Rissani and Erfoud. For the fifth edition, however, concerts were also held in the cities of Errachidia, Rissani and Meknès to allow a greater number of attendees to see the outstanding performances.

The highlight of the closing night on Sunday (May 11th) was without question when great Moroccan lutenist Haj Younès accompanied the radiant singer Said Charaf.

"I think festivals like this are to be encouraged because they can be a bridging point between different cultures," Younes said.

There was also a captivating performance by traditional ballet troupe Kilandukilu, showcasing how Angolan choreography combines tradition and modernity. Another crowd-pleaser came from "Jazz Moments in a Classic Mood", an Italian group led by composer Mino Laciringola.

Hassan Aourid, Wali of the Meknès-Tafilalet region, told Magharebia that the festival of desert music gains in maturity each year and is becoming an event not to be missed.

"It combines both the magic of the spectacle and the promotion of tourism in Tafilalet, which has inestimable assets," he said.