Serves 4 Hot Lamb Beef herbs Spices Main Course Barbecue Gluten Wheat Dairy free Eggless Morocco North African Africa

Ingredients

Marinade

100g/4oz Onion, finely chopped

2 tbsp freshly chopped Parsley

120ml/4fl.oz. Olive Oil

1 teasp Salt

Black Pepper

1 Garlic Clove, crushed

1 teasp Ground Coriander

½ teasp Cumin Seeds

Other ingredients

450g/1lb Lean Beef or Lamb, cut into 2.5cm/1 inch cubes

225g/8oz Solid Beef Suet, cut into 12mm/ ½ inch cubes

Instructions

1. Place the marinade ingredients in a shall dish, mix well then and the meat and suet mixing to coat. Cover and allow to marinate for 2-6 hours.

2. Thread the beef and suet alternately onto skewers.

3. Cook over hot coals for 15-20 minutes, turning from time to time and basting occasionally with the marinade. Alternatively, cook under a hot grill as above. Serve hot.


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Serves 6 Hot Vegetarian Vegan Pulses Vegetable Vegetables Soups Starter Gluten Wheat Dairy free Morocco North African African

Ingredients

1 tbsp Olive Oil

2 Onions, chopped

2 Garlic Cloves, crushed

1 teasp freshly grated Ginger

1.5L/50fl.oz. Water

200g/7oz Red Lentils

1 x 400g/14oz tin Chickpeas, drained

1 x 400g/14oz tin Cannellini Beans

1 x 400g/14oz tin Chopped Tomatoes

50g/2oz Carrots, chopped

50g/2oz Celery, chopped

1 teasp Garam Masala (check ingredients)

1 teasp Ground Cardamom (check ingredients)

1/2 teasp Ground Cayenne Pepper (check ingredients)

1/2 teasp Ground Cumin (check ingredients)

Instructions

1. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onions, garlic, and ginger and sauté gently for 5 minutes.

2. Add the remaining ingredients, bring to a boil for a few minutes then reduce the heat and simmer for 1-1/2 hours until the lentils are soft.

3. Allow to cool a little then transfer half the soup to a food processor or liquidiser and process until smooth.

4. Return the pureed soup to the remaining mixture in the pan, mix well and simmer until heated through. Serve hot.


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Makes 20 Hot Lamb Herbs Spices Hors d'oeuvre Appetiser Starter Buffet Party Food Gluten Wheat Dairy Free Eggless Morocco North African Africa

Ingredients

For the Meatballs

100g/4oz Minced Lamb

1 large Spring Onion, chopped

2 teasp Ras el hanout

2 tbsp freshly chopped Coriander

2 tbsp Sesame Seeds

Salt and Black Pepper

Cornflour

Other Ingredients

2 tbsp Vegetable Oil

20 Small Lettuce Leaves

10 mint leaves

10 Coriander leaves

Chilli Dipping Sauce to serve

Instructions

1. In a large mixing bowl, mix together all the meatball ingredients (apart from the cornflour) until well blended. Using damp hands, roll into 20 balls.

2. Sprinkle the cornflour onto a work surface and roll the balls in it to lightly coat on all sides.

3. Heat the oil in a frying pan until hot then fry the meatballs a few at a time over a medium heat for 4-5 minutes until well browned.

4. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on paper towels. Allow cool a little.

5. Arrange the lettuce leaves on a serving platter then place a warm meatball on each lettuce leaf and top with a mint or coriander leaf and spear a cocktail stick through the centre to secure. Serve with the chili sauce to dip.


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Serves 4 Cold Vegetable Vegetables Soups Starter Gluten Wheat Dairy Free Morocco North African Africa

Ingredients

1.1L/40fl.oz. Fresh Chicken Stock

75g/3oz Onions, chopped

1/2 teasp Ground Caraway Seed

1 level teasp Cumin Seed

3 Garlic Cloves, chopped

1 tbsp Lemon Juice

1 tbsp Lime Juice

450g/1lb Carrots, peeled and chopped

Freshly chopped Coriander to garnish

Instructions

1. Place all the ingredients in a large saucepan, bring to the boil then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes until tender.

2. Allow to cool then drain, reserving the liquid and transfer the pulp to a food processor or liquidiser. Process until very smooth.

3. Add the reserved liquid to the puree, mix well and chill.

4. To serve - transfer to soup bowls or plates and garnish with chopped coriander. Serve cold.


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Traditionally used by nomads as portable ovens over charcoal braziers, a tagine is made from glazed earthenware with a conical lid. The base is both a cooking and serving dish. It is very heavy to withstand constant use, and to hold the heat longer. The cone shaped cover acts like an oven and the entire lid is totally sealed to retain heat and moisture, which not only prevents it from drying out during the long cooking process, but also allows the slow infusion of flavors throughout the dish. The lid has an extended knob at the top which is designed to remain cooler and thereby act as a handle.

The low, indirect heat produces a rich, aromatic flavour as the food slowly simmers for several hours. Most tagines purchased nowadays can be used either in the oven or on top of the stove. The food is cooked in and served from the tagine, but remember to protect your table from heat from the base, when it comes off the stove or out of the oven.

Of course, tagines can be cooked in more conventional cookware such as casseroles, however, to add an aura of authenticity you can serve the cooked stew from a decorated tagine which is a beautiful serving dish in itself.

Tagines - The Recipes

Basically, tagines are a sort of stew, which are usually a mixture of vegetables, poultry or lamb*, often with the addition of fruit. They have a thick rich spicy sauce which is thickened due to the long cooking process and are generally served with bread, couscous or rice.

Originally, they would be cooked for many hours, however with modern cookers, a good result can be achieved in as little as 1-1/2 hours for poultry and meats and a lot less for vegetables, but bear in mind, the longer you cook them, the more developed the flavours.

The fruits are usually added in dried form and contribute a subtle sweetness to the overall flavor. Often tagines contain preserved or salted lemons, which give the dish a unique flavour which cannot be duplicated by using fresh lemons.


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y Linda Carpenter
Alpenhorn Bed & Breakfast, Big Bear Lake, California


Makes 24 individual mini-cups


24 small wonton wrappers
1 can (13.75 oz.) artichoke hearts, drained
1 can (3.8 oz.) sliced ripe pitted olives
1/4 c. chopped red bell pepper
1/4 c. grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 c. shredded mozzarella cheese
1/2 c. mayonnaise
1 clove garlic, pressed

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Press wonton wrappers into lightly sprayed mini-muffin pan. Chop drained artichokes and red peppers. Combine chopped vegetables, olives, cheeses, garlic and mayonnaise. Fill prepared muffin cups with artichoke mixture using small scoop (1 scoop per muffin cup).

Bake 12-14 minutes. Let cool in pan 2 minutes. Carefully remove and serve warm.



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Barbecue Spareribs

Serves 6-8 people as an appetizer

2 lb. baby back pork spareribs

Marinade:

2 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 Tbsp. honey
2 Tbsp. hoisin sauce
1 Tbsp. white vinegar
1 Tbsp. dry sherry
1 tsp. salt
2 cloves garlic, minced
pinch of 5 spice powder

scallions shredded

Have the butcher cut the one slab of ribs into two, lengthwise, from top to bottom down the center. This will produce small Chinese-style spareribs.

Combine the marinade ingredients and pour over the ribs and let marinate for at least 3 hours, preferably overnight, turning the ribs at least once or twice.

Place the ribs on an outside grill after the coals have burned down. Barbecue about 20 to 30 minutes, NOT over direct fire as the ribs will burn easily.

To serve place ribs on a chopping board and, with a cleaver, separate the strip into individual ribs.

Decorate with shreds of scallions and serve.

©Sally Bernstein, 2006

Artichoke Spread

Serves 6-8 people as an appetizer

2 14.5 oz. cans artichokes, rinsed, well drained and cut up
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup parmesan cheese

Mix 3 ingredients. Place in a one quart casserole. Sprinkle with paprika.

Heat until warm and serve with crackers.

©Sally Bernstein, 2006

Artichoke Balls

Makes 4 dozen

2 cloves garlic, pureed
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 8 oz. cans artichoke hearts, drained & mashed
2 eggs, slightly beaten
½ cup grated parmesan cheese
½ cup seasoned bread crumbs

Sauté garlic in oil, add artichokes and eggs. Cook 5 minutes, stirring. Remove from heat, add cheese and crumbs. Roll into balls – 1 tsp. each. Roll in additional crumbs. Bake in 350º oven 20-30 minutes (at most).

Serve hot!

©Sally Bernstein, 2006

Introduction

Morocco's reigning monarch, King Hassan II, likens his country to a desert palm: "rooted in Africa, watered by Islam and rustled by the winds of Europe." A poetic description for a place which can appear mystical, magical and foreboding all at once.

Situated on the northwest coast of Africa, Morocco is one of three countries which make up the maghreb ("furthest west"), the other two being Algeria and Tunisia. The Atlantic Ocean is to the west, while the calm waters of the Mediterranean are due north and the harsher sands of the Sahara are to the south. Snaking through the center of the country are a series of mountain ranges, beginning with the Rif mountains in the north and continuing with the Middle Atlas, High Atlas and Anti-Atlas ranges, which nearly split the country in half along a vertical axis. It is these mountainous areas which are heavily populated by the Berbers, the indigenous people of Morocco who still comprise 80% of the population. The Berbers are not ethnically Arabs, but they are Islamic.

The Phoenicians, merchants from North Africa, were the first to establish a series of trading ports along the coast of Morocco nearly three thousand years ago. Along with the increased trade, the Phoenicians brought with them new skills for the Berbers such as masonry, weaving and iron and metalwork. A period of Roman rule followed, leading to the Arab conquest in the 7th century which brought Islam to the people of Morocco. The Arabs ultimately left but the message and traditions of Islam held firm with the fiercely independent Moroccans. The city of Fez, the country's first royal capital, was founded in 799 AD and quickly became the center of cultural, economic and political life. A succession of tribal dynasties proceeded to rule Morocco, culminating with the Alaouites, Arab sultans who seized power in 1668 and hold it to this day.

Despite a reigning monarchy, the Europeans vied for control of Morocco throughout the 1800s, with the French finally prevailing as signaled by the Treaty of Fez in 1912. This document declared Morocco to be both a French and Spanish protectorate, influences which remain strong in the country. The second world war muddied the waters of leadership anew, with the Moroccans finally regaining their independence in 1956. The ruling sultan took to calling himself King Mohammed V in keeping with a new constitutional monarchy. His son, King Hassan II, assumed the throne in 1961.

Today, this rich country of nearly 25 million people is heavily involved in agriculture, although tourism and mining contribute significantly to the economy as well. Spanish, Jewish and Arab influences combine with the native Berbers to create the cultural stew which is the spice of Morocco. To really get to know this country one must look past images of smoky Casablanca (the famous movie wasn't even filmed here!) and exotic, Euro-styled Tangier, although both of these cities are well worth a visit. True Morocco can be found by exploring the medina ("old town") of Fez and the souks ("market") of Marrakech. The unique cuisine of this North African country is yet another way to savor the flavor of Morocco.

The Moroccan Kitchen

The foods of Morocco take great advantage of the natural bounty of a country where eating is both a practical and social ritual. The cooks in the kitchens of the four royal cities (Fez, Meknes, Marrakech and Rabat) helped to refine Moroccan cuisine and create the basis for what we know as Moroccan cuisine today. The midday meal is the main meal, except during the holy month of Ramadan, and abundant servings are the norm. The meal usually begins with a series of hot and cold salads which are followed by a tagine, or stew. The heartiest plate, often a lamb or chicken dish, is next, followed by a heaping plate of couscous topped with meats and vegetables. A soothing cup of sweet mint tea is the grace note to this repast. It is not uncommon for Moroccans to eat using the first three fingers of a hand, and to use bread as a "utensil."

The strong Arab influence found in two of the royal cities, Fez and Marrakech, contributed greatly to Moroccan cuisine, as did the Andalusian sensibilities of Tetuan and the Jewish traditions from the coastal city of Essaouira. Aspects of all of these cultures can be found in four of the best-loved Moroccan dishes: couscous, plumped semolina grains which are served with a variety of toppings; bisteeya, a delectable three-layer pie which is both savory and sweet and wrapped in the thinnest of pastry; mechoui, tender roasted lamb; and djej emshmel, succulent roasted chicken cooked with olives and lemon.

While spices have been imported to Morocco for thousands of years, many commonly-used raw ingredients are home-grown: mint and olives from Meknes, oranges and lemons from sunny Fez, prickly pear from Casablanca and shad from the Sebou river. Also cultivated in Morocco are pomegranates, almonds, dates, walnuts, chestnuts, honey, barley, cherries and melon. Seafood is abundant along the Atlantic coast while lamb and poultry are raised on higher ground.

The Moroccans are quick to point out that the best meals are found not in the restaurants but in the homes. In this land of good and abundant food, the emphasis is clearly on preparing your own. It is worth mentioning that women do virtually all of the cooking in this very traditional country.

Key Ingredients

Moroccan cuisine is rich in spices, only natural when you consider the ages-old spice trade from Arabia to North Africa. Spices here are used to enhance, not mask, the flavor of food. The following spices are among the most commonly used.

cinnamon
found in bisteeya, couscous and many desserts

cumin
ground cumin is among the most flavorful spices used and is common in meats, lamb and chicken

turmeric
always found in harira soup, a rich, hearty soup which is the evening meal during Ramadan

ginger
found in many tagines (stews)

cayenne
popular in the dishes of southern Morocco

paprika
usually in tomato dishes and vegetable tagines

anise seed
found in breads and cookies

sesame seed
used in breads, desserts and as a garnish for savory dishes saffron

black pepper

Spices found with less frequency in Moroccan cuisine include allspice, caraway, cloves, coriander seeds and licorice. Ras el hanout is a mixture of many spices (often 20 to 30) which is used to flavor dishes as well.

Herbs also play an important role in Moroccan food, chief among them the following:

parsley
a liberal sprinkling is used in tagines

green coriander
the leaves, not the seeds, are often used in tagines to give them a unique flavor

marjoram, grey verbena and mint
often used in teas

fragrant waters
orange flower water and rosewater are used in cakes, sweets, tagines and salads

basil

The Moroccan table also makes good use of the following ingredients:

onions
Spanish onions are popular

garlic
often used in honey dishes to balance the flavor

lemons
especially pickled lemons

eggs
a very popular element; curdled eggs are used in bisteeya, while vegetables and chicken are often coated with eggs

honey
used in glazed dishes, desserts, poultry stuffings and tagines

couscous
the grain as well as the dish is ubiquitous

chick-peas
used in hummus, couscous dishes and tagines

bread
heavier Arab bread and the lighter pita bread are both edible and functional when eating with the fingers

olives

buttermilk

Moroccan Favorites

You are probably quite likely to find the following items at a Moroccan diffa, or banquet. If so, consider yourself lucky, for you'll be eating some of the most delicious food around. If invitations are in short supply, you can always prepare them yourself at home.

Salads
A fresh, cool salad is often served at the start of a meal. Among the most commonly served are a tomato and green pepper salad (similar to the Spanish gazpacho), a mixed herb salad, eggplant salad or a salad redolent with oranges, which the Moroccans grow in large quantity.

Bisteeya
This traditional savory pastry is made in three layers: a layer of shredded chicken is topped with eggs which are curdled in a lemony onion sauce and further topped with a dusting of sweetened almonds. The whole is enclosed in tissue-thin pastry called warka and topped by a layer of cinnamon and sugar. It is believed that this fine pastry (similar to the pastry used for Chinese spring rolls) came from the Persians, who likely learned to prepare it from the Chinese.

Couscous
These are fine semolina grains which are plumped by steaming them over a simmering stew. The grains are then piled on a large platter, with the stew heaped on top. This is a classic Berber dish which has seen many interpretations. Traditionally, couscous is served for Friday lunch or for special occasions. It is never a main dish, rather it is served as the last dish at the end of a meal. A "couscous of seven vegetables" is common in Fez, where seven is considered a lucky number. The seven "lucky" vegetables are onions, pumpkin, zucchini, turnips, chili peppers, carrots and tomatoes.

Fish
Both fresh and salt water fish grace the Moroccan table. While it is commonly prepared as a stew, it is sometimes fried and often stuffed. A popular fish tagine, which is prepared with potatoes, tomatoes and green peppers, shows a strong Andalusian influence. The Moroccans believe that in a tagine, the sauce is everything!

Poultry
Some of the tastiest dishes in Moroccan cookery involve chicken, which can be steamed, broiled or fried and is often accompanied with vegetables. Chicken with lemon and olives is the classic preparation, while a chicken tagine cooked with butter, onions, pepper, saffron, chick-peas, almonds and lemon is also popular. Chickens are also prepared stuffed with raisins, almonds, rice or eggs, but when you consider the experimental nature of Moroccan cooks, perhaps it's all of the above!

Meat
Lamb is king on the Moroccan table, especially roasted lamb, which is as tender and flavorful as you will find. It can also be braised, browned, steamed or served on skewers, the latter commonly known as shish kebab. Kefta is lamb or beef which has been generously spiced, then rolled into the shape of a sausage, placed on a skewer and broiled; when it is rolled into meatballs, it is used in tagines. Lamb tagines are prepared with a cornucopia of vegetables and some even use fruit.

Desserts
Sweets aren't always served at the end of a Moroccan meal, but when they are, it might well be one of the following: "gazelle's horns" are a croissant-like pastry which is stuffed with almond paste and topped with sugar, while honey cakes are pretzel-shaped pieces of dough which are deep-fried, dipped into a piping-hot pot of honey and then sprinkled with sesame seeds.

Tea
Moroccan tea may be the main reason why desserts are an uncommon treat after a meal: this tea IS dessert! Green tea is steeped and then laced with sugar and fresh spearmint. The resulting brew is a minty, syrupy-sweet taste which isn't for everyone.

A Night With The Pasha

While a pasha refers to the governor of a city or province in Morocco, in San Francisco it best describes Jalal Takesh, the amiable owner of Pasha restaurant, a traditional and elegant Moroccan eatery in the heart of the city. A group of friends accompanied me on a recent visit to Pasha, and to say the mood was festive is an understatement. A belly dancer (pregnant, no less!) appeared before we had even ordered our meal and proceeded to enchant us with her rhythmic swaying and athletic grace. Her prop, a live snake, wasn't quite as charming, but maybe that's because the snake was mere feet from our table. In short order, half the restaurant was up on the stage, gyrating with the dancer and having a ball. My hungry gang of six finally ordered "A Royal Feast" and anxiously awaited the real performance.

Our meal began with a series of small plates, among them hummus, a pleasing chick-pea puree seasoned with sesame paste, falafel (fried patties of crushed beans) and a tabbouleh salad flavored with parsley and cracked wheat. Standouts among these plates were the bisteeya, a wonderful rendition of the classic savory/sweet pie and piyaz, Mediterranean white beans in a slightly tangy marinade. The bulk of our feast was made up of heartier dishes, six in all, including lamb with honey, almonds and raisins as well as chicken with honey, onions, raisins and sesame seeds and a sublime hare with paprika, tomatoes and onions. The traditional chicken with pickled lemon and olives was also served, as was a couscous topped with a medley of vegetables which were seasoned with a cumin cayenne sauce. By the time glasses of mint tea arrived, we were ready for bed, sated as can be.

Dining Moroccan-style is a feast for the senses, and at Pasha, the food is well worth your while, especially if you're in a party mood. Pasha, 1516 Broadway, San Francisco (415) 885-4477. Dinner only; "A Royal Feast" is $26 per person, minimum two persons.

Recipes

The following recipes have been provided by the cultural section of the Moroccan Embassy in Washington, D.C. Enjoy!

Bisteeya
serves 12

Note: this dish is made of fine layers of almost transparent pastry called warka, akin to the pastry used for Chinese spring rolls.

2 chickens (about 4 1/2 lbs. of meat)
6 C. chopped parsley
3 lbs. onions
8 eggs
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 1/2 tsp. saffron (crushed saffron flowers)
12 oz. almonds (and oil to fry them)
1 C. sugar
salt and pepper to taste

Wash the chickens and put whole in a thick-bottomed saucepan with the salt, chopped parsley, grated onions, pepper, saffron, cinnamon and sugar. Add a small amount of water, and add more if there is no liquid left before the chickens are cooked. Cook over medium heat, stirring from time to time.

Take out the chickens when cooked, removing any stuffing which may have gotten inside. Allow the stuffing to cook longer, stirring constantly until all the water has evaporated. Add the eight beaten eggs and stir constantly, then remove from heat. Cut up the chicken meat. Skin the almonds and fry them in oil until they begin to color, then turn into a strainer. Crush the almonds coarsely in a mortar or through a vegetable sieve, using the widest grid. Mix with a little sugar. Add three tablespoons of the oil used to fry the almonds to the stuffing, putting the remainder of the oil aside.

To complete the bisteeya you can use a round, tin-lined copper utensil ("tbsil dyal bisteeya") with a diameter of about 19 inches. Oil the bottom and sides of this or a baking dish. Cover the dish with a first layer of twelve sheets of pastry, shiny side down, overlapping them and sticking them with beaten egg yolks. Make sure that the outer sheets hang over the edge of the dish. Cover with a second layer to strengthen, then a layer of stuffing,, another layer of pastry (but without going over the edges of the dish), then the pieces of chicken. Sprinkle with the crushed almonds. Fold back towards the center the pastry which overlaps the edge of the dish, sticking them together with beaten egg yolks. Place two more layers of pastry, shiny surface up, overlapping them again and with the edges hanging over the edge of the dish. Tuck these edges under the bottom of the bisteeya as if making a bed. Brush surface and edges with egg yolks and oil remaining from the almonds. You now have a flat pie about two inches thick.

Cook the bisteeya in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes or until golden brown. Turn out onto a baking sheet, and about 15 to 20 minutes before serving, brush with oil again, put back in the oven and brown the other side. To serve, turn the bisteeya out onto a large plate, sprinkle the top liberally with powdered sugar and finish off with fine criss-crossing lines of powdered cinnamon.

Harira Soup
serves 4

Note: this hearty Moroccan soup, of Berber origin, is typically served as the evening meal during the holy month of Ramadan. It is an excellent cold-weather soup.

1 C. chick peas/garbanzo beans
1 C. lentils
1 C. dried peeled fava beans
1 1/2 C. white flour
1/2 C. oil
1/2 C. rice
1/2 C. vermicelli
2 T. tomato paste
1 lb. plum tomatoes, peeled
1 medium to large onion
1 bunch fresh cilantro
1 small bunch parsley
2 sticks celery
4 quarts water (continue to add water as it evaporates)
1/2 t. black pepper
1/2 t. cumin
1/2 t. yellow root ("kharqoum"), often used in Indian cuisine
1 T. salt
2 cloves garlic

Chop all the ingredients finely and place them in a large pot (note that the chick peas need to be soaked overnight to ensure their cooking well with the other ingredients). Save the vermicelli and the flour for the last stage. Let the soup boil for 40 minutes. When the chick peas are cooked, add the vermicelli. Mix the flour in a bowl with warm water until it is liquefied and there are no lumps. Add some lemon juice and pour the mixture into the pot very slowly while stirring with a large wooden spoon. The result should be a thick soup; add more flour if it is too watery. Add a raw egg to the soup if desired.

Mechoui
serves 8-10

Note: this roasted lamb dish is usually served for special occasions or on religious holidays.

7-8 lbs. lamb (shoulder and rib portion is best)
1 T. paprika
1 t. cumin
4 ozs. melted butter
salt to taste

Rinse the meat. Mix together the paprika, cumin, butter and salt and spread over the lamb. Loosen some of the skin just under the shoulder and put a little of the mixture inside. Cook in a moderately hot oven with the fleshy part of the meat facing down. Add a glass of water and baste with the resulting juices from time to time so that the meat does not become dry. After two hours, turn the meat over and cook the other side until golden brown. Continue cooking for another thirty minutes, then remove once you have checked that the meat is tender enough to be torn off with the fingers. Arrange on a dish without the gravy. Eat while piping hot, seasoned with cumin and salt.

Mint Tea
serves 4-8

Note: this tea is typically served in small, slender glasses.

green tea
sugar cubes
fresh mint sprigs
water

Rinse a large teapot with two quarts of hot water. Place two or three teaspoons of green tea in the pot and pour a little boiling water over it; remove the water afterwards. Add lump sugar to taste (usually 20 cubes for a large teapot) and fill the teapot halfway with boiling water. Add fresh mint sprigs and let steep for several minutes. Serve the tea in the glasses.

All photos courtesy of the Moroccan Embassy in Washington, D.C.